I have to admit I knew pitifully little about Peru before we came.  There’s Paddington of course, they eat guinea pig, and it must be deep and dark because there are bits that are deepest and darkest.  All I knew about the Incas was that they worshipped the sun and the Spanish nicked all their gold.  So in preparation, Tim and I read a couple of books, Turn Right at Manchu Pichu and The Last Days of the Incas.  You know how much I love the Spanish, but god those guys were bastards.  The Incas weren’t exactly as cute as a baby llama either.  Sacrificing children because the weather’s not holding up or having all your servants slaughtered when you die to look after you in the next world, doesn’t give them mother Teresa status.  They were an amazing race.  The architecture and engineering is mind boggling considering the limitations of the age.  And not just technically brilliant, but beautiful to look at as well.  

Anyway, new city new guide, Willington.  First he took us even higher out of Cusco.  Getting our breath was still a struggle but much easier now.  First stop was Saqsaywaman, a fortress and ceremonial ground overlooking Cusco lying in the bowl of the mountains, the umbiglo, or belly button.   

Then to Pukapukara and Tambomachay.

We then headed back into town where Willington gave us a walking tour of the historic centre. It has been really worth having a guide.  He knows everything about everything it seems, and a very pleasant person to spend time with.   

When the Spanish did their conquering they demolished all the Inca sacred sites, took the gold and silver, then built their own churches on the Inca foundations, using the precious metals to create some of the most ornate and over the top altar pieces you will ever see.  It’s stunning but leaves a bit of a sour taste.   As karma would have it, a huge earthquake hit in 1950, demolishing the colonial buildings, but leaving the Inca foundations, built for strength, intact.   

As we reached the square there was a cacophony of music and chatter of people.   A procession of children and young people was in progress, all dancing in the most colourful and sparkling outfits you can imagine.   Willington had no idea what it was for.  Apparently they are always doing parades at the drop of a stovepipe hat, with the month of June being non-stop partying to celebrate the foundation of Cusco.   Peruvians love to dress up and party, that much is clear and they dont do it subtly.   

​

​